Thursday 10 October 2013

Cruisin' In Palembang

I had heard a lot about driving conditions in Southeast Asia and Indonesia prior to my arrival. I had heard of the incessant traffic, the hap-hazard flow of mobiles, the swerving motorbikes, the disregard for attempts at traffic control. When I arrived, I learned that all of these things are very true. However, the reality is far less scary and far more beautiful than I had imagined.

I would compare the flow of traffic in Palembang to a flock of birds dancing in the wind. It is an unspoken logistical democracy. A continual compromise. An intricate game of give and take, accompanied by a barrage of beeping horns.

Yes, people do not always follow the traffic controls or laws, but everyone is extremely aware of their surroundings and the way they are driving. They have to be. Cars and motorbikes swerve relentlessly through the lanes, creating a four-lane road from a street with just one dividing line. Yet, I see no scratches on the sides of cars and have yet to witness an accident. Making a turn across traffic requires a keen sense of traffic flow and some guts, but once the motorist edges into the opposing lane, the oncoming traffic senses the turning vehicle and responds appropriately. It's scary at first, but the level of awareness on the road is such that you can expect the oncoming drivers to sense the impending turner and slow down or speed past as needed. In my opinion, the system is no more dangerous than the traffic in the states and seemingly more efficient.

I have included two videos of myself driving through traffic in Palembang. One on the back of a motorbike at night and the other while inside the school's mini-bus during the day. I want to get some footage of heavy traffic or at a major intersection, but these two videos do a good job of capturing the traffic flow on a moderate day.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zTGMabVJ4wY
The street shops at the beginning of the video are selling durian http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Durian, a smelly but tasty traditional Indonesian fruit.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PY9OV5P_J7Y

Also, if you want to cross the street at any place along the road, you simply edge your way out with a hand extended against traffic and the cars will slow down and let you pass, or speed past you, so you must be very cautious.

*For my mother: yes, I wear a helmet when I ride on the back of motorbikes.

*For my friends, mom- do not read: One time this kid was texting while I was riding on the back of his motorbike in crazy traffic it was freaky we almost crashed like ten times.

*For my mother, since I know you read that last one: Okay I told the kid to stop texting and we didn't come close to crashing, but don't tell my friends cuz I wanna sound cool.

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